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Il Naviglio Grande
Mercatone dell'Antiquariato
If
you are looking for a leisurely walk along a nice scenic area, you
don't have to leave the city to find it. In fact, you may even find
a couple of things to snatch up and take home with you. 'Il Naviglio
Grande' is a beautiful area in Milan near Porta Genova that is frequented
by artists, young shoppers and romantics.
Years ago, it was known as the "Artists Center" because
everyone who wanted to paint a memorable section of Milan wanted
to capture the canal and the old apartment buildings. It is still
used as an open air studio for many artists. Fashion designers have
recently opened their boutiques and studios along the canal. An
area also known for its many restaurants, the canal can prove to
be a whole day experience.
A very charming area on any day, take a walk along the canal, grab
an ice cream at an old fashion gelateria, and shop around for some
clothes, or pieces of art. At the very tip of the canal you can
also find a fish market, a flower market, and a fruit market all
at the same corner. It makes for a perfect stop to pick up ingredients
for a fresh weekend dinner.
If you can swing it, a must see is when 'Il Naviglio' has its open
air antique market at the end of every month. The last Sunday of
each month except for July and August, the canal turns into one
massive shopping area. It's called the "Mercatone dell'Antiquariato"
and is packed with antiques, great finds, and loads (loads!)
of people.
As a tenant of the area, I have experienced this event first hand,
from the very early morning of set up time, to the very late afternoon
of packing it all in. Here is my account of a fascinating Sunday:
The
morning begins on these special Sundays with the sound of trucks
and antique dealers. They literally set up shop right in front of
our building. For some, it may be a real hassle; not being able
to get the car out (or having to wake up before they arrive to get
out with the car), but to my husband and I, it's an entertaining
way to end each month here in Italy. I've been to some antique fairs,
but they were never at our front door, and they were never along
a scenic canal, and they were never filled with Italian antiques.
This Naviglio tradition is a real pleasant experience and we like
to enjoy it from start to finish.
With a quick look outside our window, we decide when is a good time
to go for our walk, factoring in the size of the crowd. It starts
to get very packed in the afternoon, so we tend to make our way
out early. After a lazy morning breakfast, we're off to check the
latest treasures brought to the street.
It
seems that everyone wants to see what they can discover in the piles.
As the saying goes, 'one man's garbage is another man's treasure'.
This is very apparent at the street market. Of course, something
like a piece of furniture that may look unsalvageable can always
be turned into a completely new and unique piece for, a bar, let's
say? From old fashion to contemporary pieces, furniture to faux
jewellery, everything can be found, it all depends what table you
land on. There are many real antiques, such as old armoires and
tables. These can range drastically in price; some are expensive
for good reason, while others are outrageous. With this in mind,
we keep a watchful eye out for pieces that are expensive. Although
we ourselves have not gone away with large pieces as souvenirs of
the street market, many do. As the street is blocked off to cars,
the challenge is taking the pieces away.
Whatever the day brings as far as finds on the street, one thing
is for sure, we always grab a bite to eat. On the Sundays of the
street market, all the restaurants and stores are open. It's perfect
for those locals that may have forgotten to pick up some bread or
milk on their way home the day before. Depending on the mood, there
are two ways of enjoying lunch. A sit down lunch is always nice
if the weather's right, where the restaurants place their tables
and chairs right in front. While you eat, you can enjoy the passers-by
and still catch glimpses of the table treasures in front of you.
Another alternative is to jump in and out of a local focaccia shop
and get a warmed up slice to go. This is nice if you want to keep
walking leisurely instead of slowing down to a halt. An absolute
must to end whatever lunch we have is to pass by a gelateria and
get a cone of ice cream.
When the afternoon is nearly over, and the dealers start to pack
up for the night, and the pedestrians start going to other destinations,
we take another peak outside our window. And with smiles of content,
we acknowledge that this is where we are and this is what we can
do at the end of each month here in Italy.
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Links:
»
Official website of Navilgio Grande
» Other
markets in Milan
» Links
for Italian art and antique collectors
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